Milan Fashion Week unveiled a season of fresh starts and superstar appearances, with new creative directors at the helm of Gucci, Fendi, and Marni. The week's highlights included Madonna, Kate Moss, and an unexpected guest, Mark Zuckerberg, gracing the runways and front rows. As for trends, the upcoming cold-weather season promises a blend of practicality and luxury, with suits for back-to-work mandates and bold outerwear, featuring feathers, (eco) fur, and animal prints to add a touch of whimsy.
One of the most talked-about moments was Mark Zuckerberg's presence at the Prada show, escorted with presidential-style security. While he sat next to Prada heir Lorenzo Bertelli, the rumored collaboration between Prada and Meta's smart glasses remained a mystery.
The week saw a shift in creative directions at various fashion houses. Gucci, under Demna, moved away from its previous attempt at quiet luxury, embracing clingy daywear and crystal-encrusted evening gowns. Fendi, led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, celebrated its heritage as a furrier and leather goods maker, showcasing upcycled furs. Marni, under Meryll Rogge, presented a youth-driven, 1990s take on the 1970s, with a focus on chunky knitwear and high-low material mixes.
Prada's collection, designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, showcased a unique layering technique with just 15 models, instead of the usual 60 or more. The show featured a progression from trenches and knit jackets to long-cuffed men's shirts, archival house coats, and dresses that frayed into underlayers, culminating in cotton bloomers, sheer embroidered slip dresses, and bralettes. Prada's obsession with history was evident in the showroom's decor, adorned with artifacts from different centuries.
Fendi's fur-over-suits and quarter-button shirts, exemplified by Uma Thurman, brought a practical yet luxurious touch. Jill Sander's collection, designed by Simone Bellotti, played with off-skew lapels and excess fabric, creating volume and a modern twist on the brand's minimalist aesthetic.
At Bottega Veneta, Louise Trotter aimed to lighten up her second outing with architectural overcoats in sturdy colors, followed by an explosion of kinetic, colorful outerwear made from fiberglass. Ferragamo's mariner twist resulted in overcoats that could be twisted into new architectures, complementing laced silken dresses.
Marni's coed debut, designed by Rogge, was a 1990s take on the 1970s, featuring chunky sweater jackets and retro-patterned pullovers. A luxurious short-haired fur coat with a cotton lining showcased the brand's high-low materials mix.
Tod's showcased the art of turning leather into soft tailoring, seamlessly transitioning from foulard dresses to leather silhouettes. Silvana Armani embraced her uncle's soft-shouldered jackets, including quilted Japanese-style jackets and colorful shearling coats, with slate gray overcoats as the show's biggest statement.
Despite the muted color palettes and focus on basics, overt references to war were rare. Moschino's designer, Adrian Appiolaza, made a subtle statement with the graphic character Mafalda on a garment, screaming 'Basta' (enough) in Italian.
